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16.011 Signature (Lunch)

katch4246

Cycle 16 – Item 11

POST 5,490

16 (Thu) January 2025

Signature (Lunch)

4.0

at Jungsik

-Cheongdam, Gangnam, Seoul, Republic of Korea-

with W

Jungsik is a Korean restaurant.  Haute cuisine à la “New Korean,” as self-described on the menu, which offers a mandatory multi-course table d’hôte, with optional supplements.  One table seating per service, by reservation only.  Awarded 2 Michelin Stars for 2025.

Located in its own building, 172 m from Apgujeong Rodeo Station (Exit 4).

The original location in New York has 3 Michelin stars.

All 12 tables were occupied.

For the 2025 edition of the Seoul-Busan guide, Michelin has awarded 3 stars to zero restaurants, 2 stars to 9 restaurants (including Jungsik), and 1 star to 25 restaurants.

The name of the restaurant is a play on the chef’s name Jungsik (or Jeongsik), a homonym for “formal dining,” as the Google translation function seems to think on the restaurant’s page in the Korean-language version of the Michelin Guide.

According to the Michelin Guide:

Chef Yim Jeong-sik, who is considered to be the pioneer of modern Korean fine dining, is introducing new and creative Korean food to the world through his eponymous Jeongsikdang Seoul and Jeongsikdang New York. His unique menu, inspired by various Korean dishes familiar to the general public, such as kimbap, bibimbap, gujeolpan, and bossam, reinterprets them and satisfies the taste and style of Korean food in a unique way that is familiar to Koreans. It is a place with all the elements for an enjoyable meal, such as unique desserts, a well-organized wine list, and considerate service.

For my birthday, W treated me to Jungsik.  Having not considered the idea in time for my actual birthday (December 28), the earliest date that she could secure was today (January 16).  Reluctant to fork out 300,000 won per person for dinner – “Do you really want me to pay another 100,000 won each just for 2 extra courses?” – she went for the less exorbitantly priced 200,000 won lunch.  And we left the kids at home.

Banchan [clockwise from bottom center] mushroom consommé (4.0) + egg tofu (4.0) + grilled yellowtail (3.5) + beef tartare (3.5) + TBC (3.0): each item delivering a mind-blowing taste and texture combination new to my experience, all different from yet complementary to one another.
Roger Goulart Extra Brut Cava (2019): pairing effortlessly with every course, a very nice all-around accompaniment for lunch.
Caviar (4.0): featuring Ostetra caviar, which has a mild, nutty flavor that harmonized perfectly with the delicate sea bass and milky herb-infused sauce.
Jeju Okdom (1.0): the fish and mandu were fine, but I couldn’t get past the sliminess of the maesaengi (seawweed fulvescens) underneath – the only miss if the meal, at least for me (W loved it).
A selection of steak knives…
…I just went with the first one, which had a nacre handle.

Seeing Naeng Myeon listed on the menu, I didn’t know what to expect, but figured that it couldn’t, and wouldn’t deign, to compete with the real deal (see for example 9.294 Indubitably, the World’s Best MNM), so I let go of my preexisting notions/standards of the dish (see generally SSPYSP) and simply looked forward to being surprised, either way.

Truffle Naeng Myeon (4.0)
With a full slice of truffle.

It was … quite something.  The clear broth started out – paradoxically, impossibly – subtle yet overpowering (like the whisper of an angel, if I could be so melodramatic).  Then elevated with truffle to another realm (heaven?), initially the sprinkled garnish on top of the noodles, then the whole slice served on the side.  The omelet topping provided a comforting roundness, while the cabbage kimchi and radish kimchi contributed delicate acid.  The noodles were a bit softer than I would’ve liked, but perhaps better that way in this particular rendition of the dish.  Overall, the Jungsik MNM was only a glimmer of MNM in its traditional form, but the glimmer reflected the very essence of the dish.

Dregs (3.0): seemed to be an odd placement for a palate cleanser – I think that it would’ve been better after the pork, before the naeng myeon (but I suppose that a Michelin-starred chef would’ve thought this through).
Dol Hareubang (4.0): don’t have the words to adequately describe the dessert, but I loved the contrasting flavors (sweet + tangy) and textures (crispy + creamy).
Caffe Latte with Assorted Cookies (3.5): frankly, the dessert would’ve been more than enough.

From start to finish, I was thoroughly entertained.  Every dish was revelatory, in one way or another.  No meal is worth 200,000 won, but this gastronomic experience was well worth it – first time that I’ve been impressed by a Michelin-starred restaurant (see for comparison 7.357 La Langoustine de Jéju).  Even better, we were both full by the end.

Masitneun (Tasty) Gim Bab (3.0)): their so-called “signature item,” for an additional 28,000 won; the deep-fried laver had an amazing texture, but the rice filling was merely competent – maybe worth a third of the price.
New York – Seoul (4.0): W’s choice of dessert.

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