2.317
18 (Fri) November 2011
Tuna Pizza
1.5
at The Mixed One
-Hannam, Yongsan, Seoul, Republic of Korea-
with W and DJ, MtG + gf, CJH + KKH
Edward Kwon is Korea’s first and as yet only celebrity chef – “celebrity” in the local sense. His style is Korean-European fusion, even though he claims to hate the term. He initially garnered some attention in local food circles as the head chef of the so-called but-not-actually 7-star Burj al-Arab Hotel in Dubai. After returning to Korea and establishing a series of his own restaurants, he shot to stardom as the obnoxious and melodramatic and self-important host of the cooking reality show Yes Chef, which concluded its 2nd season earlier this year. He also hosts other cooking programs on various channels.
A couple weeks ago, Edward Kwon opened The Mixed One. Located in Hannam-Dong amidst the embassies and international kindergartens, the restaurant was conceived as an upscale family restaurant serving so-called “California multi-cuisine.” Seeing him cook on television, I had admired his presentation techniques but remained curious about the taste of the somewhat unorthodox creations that he would make. I’d been meaning to give an Edward Kwon restaurant a go, so I was enthused that he had brought one so close to home.
The Mixed One was “upscale” in the sense that all the dishes were minuscule and way overpriced. The tuna pizza, for example, was a taco-sized tortilla with transparently thin slices of tuna sashimi topped with a sprinkle of green olives and slathered in mayonnaise. 15,000 won + 10% VAT. I began to worry when the server did a double-take, when I ordered just one for the entire table. I could’ve eaten 10 of them by myself, not that I would’ve wanted to.
It was “family” in the sense that there was a kids’ menu. Chicken nuggets, for example, which is what DJ ordered. 7,500 won + 10% VAT for 4 pieces. The first thing that he said upon tasting a piece was that he preferred the ones at McDonald’s, and I agreed. Aside from the not-so-great nuggets themselves, which appeared to consist of some ground chicken and a lot of filler, breaded and deep-fried, they came with a red dipping sauce that suggested ketchup but turned out to be hot sauce. Hot sauce, on the kids’ menu. When I asked the server if he’d made a mistake in bringing hot sauce, he looked puzzled and said, “No, why?” (The kids’ menu also had a “mini burger.”)
It was “California multi-cuisine” in the sense that the bill of fare offered a diverse range of classic items that Californians never eat on a regular basis, like foie gras & doeun jang veloute with wilted apple. Before we got to ordering, the server said that he would help to explain the menu, which seemed a good idea as we were first-timers, but then he launched into an entirely unhelpful tutorial on the menu headings: “In ‘KIDS’ MENU,’ we have foods for kids; in ‘SIDE DISHES,’ we have side dishes; in ‘BEVERAGES,’….” – I swear, I’m not making this up – but nothing on the dishes specifically. So we ordered blind.
When the food arrived, my worries were fully realized. Each in its own unique way, the dishes were convoluted, chaotic, as if the concept were to confuse. What a mess.
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