3.024
29 (Sun) January 2012
Doenjang Jjigae with Celery Leaves
3.0
by me
at home
-Oksu, Seongdong, Seoul, Republic of Korea-
with W and DJ
I can’t resist incorporating celery into the Korean dishes that I make, despite the unorthodoxy of doing so. The compulsion comes from the Western influence, which embraces celery as a fundamental ingredient, either on its own or as a component of stocks/sauces (e.g., mire poix). For me, even where Korean cuisine is concerned, the absence of celery feels inherently flawed. But in past year or so, after several people had commented that my attempts at authentic soups or stir-fries tasted “unique” or “different” or “weird,” while I’d been pleased at myself for getting it just right, I’ve come to realize that the subtle yet distinct undertone of the celery imparts an incongruous shade to the traditional flavor profile that Koreans are accustomed to. As a result, I hold back when guests are involved and go all out when it’s just me and the family.
In related news, I’ve been learning to use celery leaves rather than discarding them after trimming. The practice follows from my newfound fondness for broccoli stems, which started as a cost-saving measure but developed into a genuine preference for the stems over the florets. Celery leaves are perfectly edible, especially in soups, such as this doenjang jjigae, where they wilt down yet maintain a good structure in the broth. Interestingly, in line with E-Mart’s ever-increasing selection of newfangled and/or exotic and/or foreign food products, including vegetables, the store has begun to sell celery leaves in packaging that recommends using them as wraps (ssam).
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