Cycle 14 – Item 312
13 (Mon) November 2023
Sunsal Jikhwa
2.0
-Changgok, Sujeong, Seongnam, Gyeonggi, Republic of Korea-
w IZ
Matccho Hwadak is a restaurant. Specializes in grilled chicken. Opened a couple months ago. Part of a franchise chain, which started in February 2023, currently with 9 locations (the website claims the contract has been signed for the 20th store).

A growing theme on GMTD is my abhorrence of straight-to-franchise restaurant chains. As previously discussed (see generally 14.118 Rice-Noodle Pho with Beef Brisket), the food is manufactured to be consistent across locations, fool-proof to prepare, and unoffending to anyone, which isn’t bad per se, but the resulting product tends therefore to be unexciting, unimaginative, soulless.

Like the corporate websites for most franchise chains, the Mattcho Hwadak website contains no information about the menu items or culinary themes or company history – i.e., things that customers would be interested in – but rather sales data, royalty payments, application processes – i.e., things that potential owners would be interested in.

The website also includes a YouTube video purporting to show how popular the restaurants are, though I strongly suspect that the external queue and internal crowd were staged, just to shoot the footage. The video only shows one location – in fact, our very own Wirye restaurant, which, I drive by nearly every day, since its opening, and I’ve never seen more than a handful of people inside. Judging by the bright sunlight, the occasion appears to be lunch – nobody in a residential neighborhood is going to line up for a restaurant at lunchtime, even on a weekend.

The food was predictably unexciting, unimaginative, soulless. Decent flavor, with a strong wokhei aroma – “jikhwa = direct fire” (see below) – but otherwise nondescript. Couldn’t decide if it were more anju or meal – the 2 other tables had young children, who were eating the chicken with rice, which is sold separately. I will never return.

For infinitely superior grilled chicken, I would go to Gye Moim (see 14.170 Grilled (Salt + Soy) Chicken), where the food is exciting, imaginative, soulful.

(See also GLOBAL FOOD GLOSSARY)
(See also RESTAURANTS IN KOREA)