3.037 Jogae Gui

3.037

11 (Sat) February 2012

Jogae Gui

3.5

at Dalseonine Jogae Madang

-Gangneung, Gangwon, Republic of Korea-

with W and DJ

Holiday in Gangwon (Day 1 of 4)

The plan:  Hitch a ride to Gangneung, with W and the kid, on the bus chartered by the camping crew (who will go on to hike and camp out on a nearby mountain – my bum knee prevents me to join them).  Hang out on the beach (Saturday).  Regroup with the camping crew for dinner (Sunday), and take a shuttle to Yongpyong (while the crew returns to Seoul in their bus).  Play in the snow for a couple days (Monday and Tuesday), and take a public bus back to Seoul.  Back in the day, I would’ve called that “a plan and a half.”

Sometime in the last decade or so, the pension has become the most popular form of rental lodging among Koreans vacationing in Korea.  The term originated in Europe, where it refers to a boardinghouse.  Here, the typical pension is a 1 to 2-story structure comprising several units, or a cluster of free-standing units, each ranging in size from a single room to a large suite, and each equipped with restroom and kitchen facilities.  Most commonly found in the countryside, it’s usually designed to look rustic, which is essentially the only thing that differentiates a “pension” from a “condo.”  Prices range from 100,000 won per night to 300,000 or more.

W gets all giddy about pensions, though I don’t share her enthusiasm.  The appeal must be a chick thing, pensions being so cute and quaint and cozy and quirky, apparently.  Personally, I find them shticky.  I’d be just as happy in a cheap motel, even happier if the motel were cheaper.  Ideally, I’d rather be camping.

Dalseonine Jogae Madang is a Korean restaurant.  Specializes in jogae gui.  According to the internet, it’s one of the most popular clam joints in an area famed for clam joints.

Packed house, we were fortunate to snatch the last available table and watch with glee as countless customers were turned away after us.

Jogae Gui (조개구이) is a type of Korean meal.  In the same way as so-called “Korean BBQ,” clams (jogae) are grilled (gui) over live coals at the table.  The types of clams vary widely depending on the restaurant, availability, and cost. Once cooked, the clams may be dipped in either chogochujang or soy sauce plus wasabi.  Most establishments also serve some sort of special dish, usually a concoction of chopped clams, cheese, onions, and chilies with gochujang in a large shell that’s grilled until everything’s all hot and bubbly.  The entire setup is regarded more as anju for booze, ideally soju, rather than a proper meal, so rice and sides are typically kept to a minimum.  The orders are usually in sizes: small, medium, or large, ranging in price from about 30,000 won to 60,000 won.

The food was great.  The quality and quantity of the clams showed that the establishment had earned its high reputation.  For a small order, such as this, most places would provide 2 maybe 3 scallops, a few other large clams, and then a couple handfuls of smaller specimens to fill out the plate.  This place was all about the big stuff, including 6 scallops, the smaller specimens just an afterthought.  At 35,000 won, plus 10,000 won for an additional serving, which turned out to be about as much as the initial serving, it was one of the best grilled clam values that I’ve ever experienced.

(See also FOODS)

(See also PLACES)

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