17.229 Pizza with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Gremolata

Cycle 17 – Item 229

Post 6,073

22 (Sat) Aug 2026

Pizza with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Gremolata

3.0

at Chez Panisse Café

-Berkeley, California, USA-

with DJ

Feathering the (Kid’s New) Nest: Day 4 of 9

In Berkeley.  Having sent DJ off to college last fall (see generally 16.228 Korean Beef Short Rib with Vegetables Wraps) – after his freshman year, he’s moved out of the dorms and rented an apartment – I’m going back this fall to help him furnish it.  Though my parents didn’t do this for me, and I don’t recall any of my friends’ parents doing it for them – Gen Xers are famously independent in such matters – DJ seemed hopelessly lost on what needed to be done and utterly incapable of getting it done.  Still, I’m always happy for an excuse to visit Berkeley – 3rd year in a row (see previously 15.182 Top).

LUNCH

Ox 9 Lanzhou Handpulled Noodles is a Chinese restaurant.  Specializes in la mian (see generally 3.248 La Mian in Scallion Oil) – which are traditionally attributed to the city of Lanzhou (capital city of Gansu Province in northwest China).  Part of a chain, founded 2017 in Milpitas, currently with 6 locations across the Bay Area.

Located on Telegraph Ave, between Channing Way and Haste St.

More shopping at IKEA, with lunch in between.

The sign (over DJ’s right shoulder) illustrates the 5 colors .

Lanzhou Beef Noodles is a Chinese dish.  Per the rule of 5 colors: 1) clear broth, 2) white radish, 3) yellow noodles, 4) green cilantro, 5) red chili oil (seems like brown beef should be a 6th color).  Beef is typically shank, thinly sliced.  Considered by some to be the definitive Chinese noodle soup.  (Not to be confused with Taiwanese beef noodle soup, which features darker/heavier broth, wide/flat knife-cut noodles, chunks of brisket.)

Braised Beef with Chinese Pickle (3.5): beef, as well as the pickles, are more in line with Taiwanese beef noodles.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Checking out of the hotel in Emeryville, I’ll be staying the next 3 nights at the Graduate (by Hilton) Berkeley.

Located on the corner of Durant Ave and Bowditch St, directly across from Artichokes, 0.5 mile (850 m) from DJ’s apartment.

The Graduate is a chain of hotels launched in 2014, each situated in a college town famous for school spirit, aligned with the branding and history of the school, targeting returning alumni, parents of students, visiting scholars, etc.  Currently 35 properties in the chain, Berkeley was the 6th, starting in 2017.

Room keys are mocked up as student IDs, with actual photos of former graduates; the back indicates that Gregory Peck attended from 1936 to 1939; the only other interesting one was Jeff Cohen, the former child actor who played Chunk in The Goonies (though they used a still shot of his face from the movie).

The hotel was originally built in 1928 as the Hotel Durant, which is what it was called back in my day.  Named after Henry Durant, the first president of the University of California.  A portion of the lobby, then and now, is open to students and the general public for gatherings/studying.  As the only hotel on the southside of campus, they charge exorbitant rates, especially in May (graduation season) and August (new student season), upwards of $300+ for a double room.

Ordinarily, I would not waste my money on this hotel.  Last year, we’d stayed at the Double Tree (by Hilton), which is way cheaper but located on Berkeley Marina, a couple miles away from campus (see generally 16.225 Wintermelon & Seafood Soup – Go Bears!).  This time, however, the plan had been to show W the charm of Berkeley, and her personal aesthetic leans towards historical/old designs, so the Graduate seemed worth the cost – $833 for 3 nights – but then she wasn’t able to come, and it was too late to cancel the booking, so here we are.

A corner room, even more expensive.

Then again, come to think of it, the walking proximity to DJ’s apartment is worth the cost, especially starting tomorrow when I’ll return the car rental.

To the north, a view of Sather Tower aka the Campanile.
To the west, a view of Artichoke Basille’s Pizza (see yesterday).

DINNER

Last year, we’d dined at Chez Panisse to celebrate DJ’s matriculation at Cal (see generally 16.226 Fettucine … Anchoïade – Let’s Celebrate in Style).

Same vibe as the restaurant (2nd floor).

Nothing to celebrate this time – getting an apartment is great for DJ, not so much for us, at least not financially – so we ate in the café (3rd floor), which offers a far less pricy à la carte menu.

Whereas the prix fixe menu in the restaurant costs $175 per head, $350 for the 2 of us (4 dishes), the cost of ordering 1 of every item on the café menu would come out to $430 (17 dishes).

Although I’d enjoyed the prior visit, I wasn’t overly eager for a return visit, except to impress W, who isn’t here, but the booking was locked in, so there we were.

Green & Red Vineyards Chez Panisse Napa Valley Zinfandel (2023) (2.5): not great but versatile, pairing nicely with the anchovies, the beef, the pizza.

The pizza was okay.  For starters, the chanterelle mushrooms were amazing, both in their chewy texture and nutty flavor – perhaps the ideal fungus for pizza funghi.  But everything else – the cheese, the sauce, the crust, and even the gremolata – were competent yet unremarkable.  Without hesitation, I would prefer a slice of Vodka Sicilian from Artichoke’s (see 17.228 Vodka Sicilian Pizza), even if not 1/6 of the price.

Anchovy and Aïoli Toasts with Marinated Sweet Peppers, Frisée, Almonds, and Sherry Vinaigrette (3.5): best anchovies that I’ve ever experienced.
Grass-Fed New York Roast with Shoestring Potatoes, Green Beans, and Horseradish Sala Verde (3.5): excellent, but unsurprisingly.

While the food was good and the prices were (relatively) reasonable, I’m not convinced that it’s worth the hassle of booking a reservation 1 month in advance.

MIDNIGHT SNACK

As when I was a student, I couldn’t resist ending the night at Top Dog.

Although classes don’t start until next Wednesday, the fraternities are busy throwing rush parties to lure freshman during orientation week; when the parties wind down, sometime past midnight, everyone converges on Durant to get a bite (time stamp: 01:38).

TESTD (Try Every Sausage at Top Dog)

Calabrese (4.0) + Top (4.0)
They’ve switched to poppy seed rolls, which are much chewier and better hold their shape.

(See RESTAURANTS IN USA)

(See GLOBAL FOOD GLOSSARY)

(See BOOZE)

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